Most tow yard jobs are for a Virginia DMV lien. DMV sets a value from a pricing guide's trade-in number. If the car is worth less (damage, no keys, won't run), your appraisal shows the true value.

The value decides the yard's path: $4,500 or less (6+ years old, no owner found, 30 days in custody) can get a title straight from DMV. $12,500 or less can go to public auction. Over that needs a court.

You can't have a money interest in the tow yard's business. Keep it arm's length.

Look at the driver's side dash through the windshield, and the driver's door jamb sticker. They should match. If they don't, note it. That's a red flag.

17 characters. No letters I, O, or Q.

Scan VIN: the door jamb barcode works best. Fill the screen with it, hold steady, no glare. It fills in the VIN and looks up the car. Always check it against the dash.

No battery? Many cars won't show miles. Write "No power" and say so in the report. Don't guess the miles.

Good: normal wear for its age. Fair: scratches, dings, worn spots. Poor: rust through, cracks, heavy wear. Damaged: needs repair or parts.

Write what you see, not what you think caused it.

Guides: Kelley Blue Book, Edmunds, and J.D. Power (NADA). Use trade-in, fair or rough condition. That's what DMV compares to.

Real sales: Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist for running cars. Copart or IAA past sales for wrecked or non-running cars.

Junk floor: if it's only worth scrap, call a local scrap yard for today's price per ton. Curb weight is on the door sticker or online.

Get 3 comparables close in year, miles, and trim. Save the links.

Comparables are usually clean, running cars. Take off what it would cost to make this one like them: repairs, missing keys (often $150–$400), towing to a shop, tires. Never go below scrap value.